Archive for the ‘BIKE SETUP’ Category

 

Recently I moved my entire shop, and residence to relocate back to the San Francisco Bay area with one goal in mind, violate San Francisco!!! I grew up here, but moved to Grover Beach to get my manufacturing engineering degree at Cal Poly San Luis.  I ended up getting stuck there for 10 years!  Not a bad place to get stuck, but daydreaming about San Francisco on the dirt bike consumed my thoughts.  it was a 4 hour drive and with my crazy schedule, didn’t happen very often.  Now, I am all up in it, crazy spots to hit everywhere, shooting videos and photo shoots all the time, and love it!!!  One of my long time friends hooked me up with a San Francisco photographer  Christophe Tomatis, http://tomatisphoto.com/, and the results have been mind blowing!  Christophe is down for the cause, gettin dirty on the ground, hittin the illegal spots, hangin out of cars, getting sniper shots from the bushes with the telephoto lenses and coming up with creative lighting, angles, and ideas that have brought my dreams, to reality!  I have so many awsome photos now that it is difficult for me to process.  This recent shoot was on a bike I just completed after a few months of developement.

I got a bone stock 2007 yz250f , with 30 minutes on it from my aluminum delivery driver.

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I never thoght I would like a 250 after owning a wr250x ( wich was a huge dissapointment) but the yz250f motocross bike is not even comparable!  I love this bike.  it is super light, (205 dry)  very snappy, and handles better than any bike I have hit a corner on.

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I designed a prototype Dual Caliper Rear Handbrake system (www.50stunt.com), a custom rear subframe with foot hoop and stunt pegs.  I also had to jump on illustrator and design my custom graphix!

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I also added Supermoto Axle Sliders Front and Rear, along with some case savers to protect the engine, and some billet handlebar ends to save my levers when I slam the bike on the earth.

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The last thing I needed was some street rubber to really rip the city up.  I have never like the 17 inch small wheels on a dirt bike, i personally think they look wak.  my goals was to keep it lookin like the dirtbike that it is, so I wrapped some street tires on the stock wheels and tried it out.  The front was good to go, but the rear did not circle good, the bike wanted to stand up and circle super wide and not lean in, even after experimenting with time pressure from 10-40 psi.  It just didn’t work.  My solution was to hit up Warp 9 Racing http://www.warp9racing.com/ and get a custom set of Supermoto Wheels goin.

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I ended up with a 21 front with a 320mm rotor and caliper adapter , and a 17 inch x 4.25 rear with rear rotor and 51T rear spocket.  Then I put a baloon tire on the rear, lol, with a tall profile as close to the stock 19 with knobbie as possible in overall diameter.  I ride this bike on the mx track all the time also, so the Warp 9 wheels coming complete with rotors and spockets makes it so I can change to my dirt setup in minutes!  I love the results, the bike handles awsome, rips, and spins on a dime! Thats all I added, I call it my minimalist build, engine is bone stock ,gearing is all stock, just 2 up in rear for the mx track.  quick swap to go to dirt trim.  The key components to convert the dirt bike to a supermoto streetstyle machine are

  • Rear handbrake kit
  • Front and rear axle sliders
  • handlebar ends
  • warp 9 wheels ( you can get away with 17 only in rear, stock front)
  • custom subframe with foot hoop and stunt pegs
  • street tires

All are avaialable at www.50stunt.com.  The Final Result is my favorite bike to date!!

 

 

So I texted Christophe Tomatis, The  San Francisco Photographer, and we did work! hitting the streets, peirs, fishermans warf, some jumps, traffic, everything!! here are a few photos, more to come, along with some sweet videos!

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some screen shots from the street session!

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keep checkin it cuz its about to get real urban!

Ryan Moore, AKA “The Supermoto Stuntman”  AKA “50 STUNT”

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I get endless emails about sprocket size questions, so I decided to try to explain the sprocket size choices and a few combinations to help riders understand what the different front and rear sprocket sizes do. If you have input, drop it in the comments below. Gearing for the honda crf 50 and xr 50 comes down to what engine size, riding type, and personal preference. I will cover a few cases in this article.

50 stunt crf 50 countershaft sprocket

50 stunt crf 50 countershaft sprocket

First let me explain what the different sizes of the front sprocket, known as the countershaft sprocket do. The stock size is 14T and going up or down from this stock size will change the way your bike accelerates, but does not increase your horsepower. If you go to a 13T in the front, you will loose top speed, but it will make the front wheel come up a little easier with the stock 50cc engine. If you go up to 15T, 16T it will increase y

our top speed, but will make the front wheel harder to crack up with the stock 50cc engine.

The second option to change gear ratios is the rear sprocket. The honda CRF 50 comes with a 37T. www.50stunt.com makes sprocket sizes of 30, 34, 37, 40, and a massive 45T. the same principles apply to the rear sprocket, but the opposite results. Incresing the tooth count on the rear sprocket will lower the top speed, and help the front wheel pop up with the stock engine. This is the opposite of the front sprocket.

to summarize, here is what you need to remember

Countershaft Sprocket : Increase tooth count = more top speed

50 stunt crf 50 rear sprocket

50 stunt crf 50 rear sprocket

Decrese tooth count = less top speed

Rear Sprocket: Increase tooth count = less top speed
Decrease tooth count= more top speed

Changing 1 tooth on front = the same effect as 3 teeth I’n thr rear

Now that you understand the basics, I can explain my sprocket choices for the crf 50 and xr50. it really comes down to what engine you have, and your riding style.

Stock Engine, 50cc:

A lot of riders like to reduce the top speed giving the engine a feel of having more power by changing the torque applied to the rear wheel. The stock gearing works well for the stock engine in my opinion, but going to a 13T up front, or a 40T in the rear will help get the front wheel up in second gear, making it more usable for straignt line combos. If you yank hard enough you can even get it up in third easier.

Big Bore engine 88cc+

If you upgraded your engine, like I do on every build, you might notice that first gear is almost useless. the increased power and torque just rips right through first. This is the reason I change gearing after insatlling 88cc kits, or 108 kits. I like to increase the top speed by adding teeth to the front, and reducing teeth in the rear. My favorite setup is the stock front, 14T and a 34T rear, sometime I will go up to 15T front if I am railing the track or parking lot minimoto style. But for stunting, the increased top speed makes first gear sweet for circle combos because the bike goes faster in first, and every other gear. for the 108cc I have run 15/30 and cracked over 50 mph, and still had the low end to bust circle combos no problem. If you go to far on the gearing without enough hp, your bike will feel a little sluggish out of the hole, but rip on top, flyin past all your homies.

I hope this artile helps you choose the right gearin for your style, either way. Keep one wheel up!!

Ryan Moore

Ryan Moore on 50stunt CRF 50

Ryan Moore on 50stunt CRF 50